Bohemian Berlin

Checking in at Orly Airport bound for Berlin, it was another case of ‘airport security gone mad’ when our tube of Vegemite was confiscated by the security staff. Although the tube was obviously almost empty, the security officer pointed out that the capacity on the packaging indicated that the tube could hold more than the allowed limit of liquids. You can never argue with these people and common sense seems to disappear somewhere before the metal detectors and x-ray machines. Fortunately, we had another tube safely tucked away in our checked-in baggage.

The flight to Berlin was uneventful although, as we had experienced a few times before, the passengers applauded when the pilot landed the plane, which always makes me a little nervous. Are they were expecting something else?

Juli found us outside the airport waiting next to our pile of luggage and we climbed into her two door Honda SUV, balancing bags across our laps.

Juli and her boyfriend, Julian, live in what is considered the hippest district of Berlin – Kreuzberg; best known for its multicultural flair, home of alternative lifestyles and immigrants. Once a poverty stricken community, it has more recently witnessed a comeback and is now home to tenants such as lawyers and doctors, mixed in with the more bohemian students and artists alike.  It also has the majority of Berlin’s Turkish population as we witnessed first hand: we were able to buy some more Turkish apple tea for Phoebe and baklava and Turkish delight again.  The street on which Juli and Julian live, Erkelenzdamm, has some beautiful 19th century buildings that survived WWII and it is one of the lowest rental areas in Berlin.  Although their particular apartment does not have central heating, it has two masonary/ceramic heaters that burn coal that is stored in the building’s basement, so we were kept toasty warm.

Juli made us feel right at home and so comfortable, borrowing mattresses from neighbours for the girls, and Dave and I sleeping on the corner sofa that folded down to make a huge bed – we basically took over their large lounge/dining room!

The winter had been a particularly long one for Europe, and Berlin had just experienced its longest period of continuous overcast days on record, but the sun came out the day after we arrived and it stayed more or less for our time there (March 4-8) bringing the locals out of the woodwork. The city took on a different feel as the citizens enjoyed the sunshine. One afternoon we went walking from the apartment to Landwehrkanal, a 6 mile long canal that runs parallel the Spree River.

People sat in the parks, on the banks of the canal, and the local playground was crowded with children. There were so many prams and mothers with young children it looked like a playgroup convention. There was even a queue outside the ice-cream shop even though the mercury was barely pushing 6 degrees!

It wasn’t to last though, and we heard later that two days after we left, on the 10th March the temperatures again plummeted leaving Berlin covered in snow which remained until the end of March. With temperatures holding below freezing for 15 consecutive days, it was the coldest March in more than 120 years! Glad we missed it. By this stage of our journey, we’d had pretty much enough of the winter – we sure picked a long one too.

Juli works in animal assisted- therapy and one afternoon she took us with her on a trip to a horse stud to check some horses her company was considering buying. The girls were able to take a short lead ride around the indoor training area. Always along for the ride was wonderful Anton, Juli’s pet, work companion and specially trained therapy dog.

Our stay in Berlin was during the week and Juli had to work at least part of each day. Having been to Berlin before we took the opportunity to do some more school work and explore a little around the local neighbourhood.

We love the casual and relaxed feel to Berlin and the fact that it is the most inexpensive of the western European cities so we were pleasantly surprised at just how inexpensive groceries were and that restaurant meals were very affordable. We enjoyed dinner at a local Vietnamese restaurant with Juli and Julian with Anton the dog always present (even coming into the restaurant and lying obediently under the table!) Then we stopped for sweets at a Turkish deli to bring home and enjoy.

On our last day the girls and I explored some of the eclectic antique shops around the apartment and had a Mexican lunch stopping in at a couple of Turkish grocery stores to pick-up provisions for an early dinner. Meanwhile David took a short metro ride to the Berlin Technical Museum. The museum is all indoors and has some large exhibits dedicated to shipping and aircraft with pieces of aircraft dating back to pre-war, V1 and V2 rockets, Messerschmitt fighters, exhibits on the Berlin Blockade, through to modern passenger jets.

That afternoon we packed up again, putting the lounge back into some rightful order and wishing again we were staying longer. Berlin is such a cool place to visit, it was lovely to at last meet Julian – thank you for sharing your home Juli and Julian. Most of all we loved being able to spend more time with Juli – the girls absolutely adore her and jostled each other to be the one next to her at every opportunity.  Juli, you are a beautiful person inside and out and you have such a kind and generous heart. We can’t wait to see you again – it’s your turn to come to Australia next!

 

“True friends are never apart. Maybe in distance but never in heart”

 

 


1 Comment

  1. Debbie Faix

    Amen . Xoxo

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *